LONDON CALLING Make England's capital affordable via free attractions, walking tours and theater discounts

LONDON -- London isn't one of the world's bargain destinations,and the feeble U.S. dollar makes it all the more daunting forAmerican visitors.

But it's possible to have a day out for less than a "tenner" -- a10-pound note, now worth about $19.

Start with the free attractions: The British Museum, the NationalGallery and National Portrait Gallery in Trafalgar Square, the vastand fascinating Tate Modern gallery across the Thames from St. Paul'sCathedral, the Imperial War Museum, the Victoria & Albert Museum, theNatural History Museum and the Science Museum -- just to name thebest-known among the capital's 200 or so museums and galleries. Mostmuseums will also have special exhibitions that do charge admission.

There's no charge for watching the Changing of the Guard atBuckingham Palace, which happens daily at 11:30 a.m. from Aprilthrough the end of July, and every other day the rest of the year.Check the Buckingham Palace section of the royal Web site,www.royal.gov.uk, for details.

Admission is also free for the Ceremony of the Keys at the Towerof London at 9:50 p.m. each night, but you need to plan ahead.(Visitors may request up to seven passes by writing to: The Ceremonyof the Keys, H.M. Tower of London, London EC3N 4AB.)

A cheap but vanishing essential of any London visit is a ride onone of the double-decker Routemaster buses; they're the ones with theopen platform on the back and a conductor waiting to sell a ticket.The fare is just 1.20 pounds, or $2.25, for a single ride; you canalso get an all-day London Transport ticket, which includesUnderground trains too, for 4.70 pounds, about $9.

If you fancy shopping, London boasts a variety of markets sellingeverything from fresh fish to vintage jewelry. Take a trip on theCentral line tube to Liverpool Street for a day at Petticoat Lanemarket, and trawl through the vintage clothing. Pretend you are ElizaDoolittle and roam through the old and new in the Covent Gardenmarket, and catch some of the street performers.

Many say the best way to view London is by foot. Walking tours area popular way of catching the hidden details, and the guides have awealth of knowledge.

Scare yourself on a Jack the Ripper walk or relive Shakespeare'sLondon. Original London Walks -- www.walks.com -- offers 100 routesat 5 pounds each -- about $9.40.

For the same price, London Mystery Walks -- www.tourguides.org.uk -- offers the Jack the Ripper walk and the Haunted London walk.

The National Theatre on the Southbank -- www.nt-online.org --offers the Travelex 10-pound season, when two-thirds of the seats areavailable for a tenner or about $19.

Web sites such as www.lastminute.com may have some theater ticketsfor the same price.

The Tricycle Theatre, one of London's better-known small theaters,offers 30 to 50 tickets to Tuesday and Saturday matinees on a "paywhat you can" basis. This offer is available to students, seniors andpeople with disabilities. The theater also offers some "early bird"tickets for less than 10 pounds or $19.

Rail lines serving London offer a range of "two for one" deals.Attractions taking in part in the promotion include the Royal BotanicGardens at Kew, HMS Belfast, Dali Universe, Tower Bridge Exhibitionand The London Aquarium. Details at www.london2for1.com; typicallyyou have to produce a train ticket and a voucher from the Web site toqualify.

AP